Saturday 3 August 2013

Our last day in Rome and last day of the Zara European Tour


We had a funny experience when we checked in last night. We were given our room on the fifth floor and went up in the lift with our now very, very heavy bags, a bit tired after our bus ride from Pompeii. I opened the door and all we could see was one single bed, and a small adjoining bathroom. We had  booked a small double room for this last night in Rome and we were hoping for late check out but this was ridiculous. I was halfway out the door to go down to the  reception to complain and demand a double room, when Ves opened the sliding stain glass doors on the side of the room which opened to a bedroom containing a double bed and a desk and wardrobes. Drama and embarrassing moment averted. Later on I opened another mirror glass door on my side of the bedroom to reveal a small ensuite. This room was full of surprises and after we had settled in we decided to go out for a walk and maybe drink before going to bed.

Well today is our last day in Rome and we fly out at 10pm tonight.

As we have only an 11am checkout it means we may not have a shower for a couple of days, as we do not get back to Sydney until 6am on Saturday.

Ves had an idea......, why not go shopping. .......meet up for lunch and then go shopping.......she is an ideas girl. Did I mention that there are 3 Zara stores in Rome, one is about 100m from our hotel and they are about 300m apart, and of course other shops in between....yeh I thought I might have. Ves loves Zara, and the sales are on so who am I to argue if she is getting a bargain.

Ves was off like a flash after breakfast to go shopping and we had agreed to return to the hotel about 10.45am in time for our final packing and checkout. We will leave the bags in the hotel. The Hotel Regno has been great and the staff really nice, in particular Giuseppe (of course) the manager, who we have decided must never sleep because he is always on the front desk.

I had time to update the blog, in between the Wifi dropping out and difficulties trying to scroll down and through what I had typed on the iPad. There must be a way, but I can't find it and its frustrating the crap out of me.

I went to Zara with Ves and checked out the bundle of clothes she liked and she bought several things and then we went to lunch at a little restaurant near the Trevi, called Osteria "Allegro Panchino", Via dei Crociferi, 12/13, where we had lunch before with Jess and Dylan on their last day. It was just as good as last time and Ves had the roasted artichokes for a starter again and she also had the beef strips and rocket salad that Jess had been searching for. Very yummy and fitting food finale for our last meal in Rome.



The last day went pretty quickly and we were picked up at the hotel at 6.45pm for our transfer to the airport. A black Mercedes pulled up at the front of the hotel and we were pleasantly surprised when the
driver came in asked for "Mr and Mrs Longa". Not a spelling mistake that's how you pronounce Long in Italian.

So it was off to the airport in style for the long haul back to Sydney.




Last day in Amalfi

Today we are leaving the Amalfi coast and we will be picked up by a driver at about 2.30pm for the drive back to Pompeii to meet the big bus for our return to Rome, estimated to be about 8.30pm.

We decided to have a relaxing last day by the pool and lunch in the restaurant, although I wanted to go back into to Amalfi one last time, Ves was right and we enjoyed our last day soaking up the sun and in out of the pool, enjoying the views and had a lovely lunch in the hotel restaurant.

Dinner on the terrace last night was also fantastic. Here are some photos.










Ves had the beef and I had the fish.




The Hotel Excelsior pool and the view


                                                                   In the grotto bar




Spoiling ourselves on our last day in Amalfi.



Positano and Ravello

We had a lovely breakfast in the hotel and joined Scott and Belinda and Sandra and Robert for the early bus down to Amalfi to catch the ferry to Positano.

All went well and we made it to the 9.20am ferry, which took about 20 minutes to get to Positano. Along the way we had the opportunity to see the coastline from a different vantage point and the we could track the road we had taken the previous day and the bridges and little churches and rocky escarpment we has seen.

It is amazing to think how they built the roads along this steep coastline and also the houses and other buildings that are dotted throughout the slopes and on the cliffs, and in remote little valleys.



Scott and Belinda on the left and Sandra and Robert on the right.


Positano from the water.


The coast between Amalfi and Positano

 


The shops and lane ways of Positano.

We had a lovely time in Positano, browsing the shops and I bought two linen shirts and we had coffee in one of the restaurants and I had a Limoncello, in a great little shot glass with a handle on the side.

We decided to take the ferry back to Amalfi and get the bus to Ravello, the next town along the coast and inland a bit from Amalfi. The other guys decided to stay in Positano and any way we had all split up as you do.


Heading back to Amalfi and the bus to Ravello.




Ravello is inland, up in the hills, a short bus ride along a narrow winding road, of course.



The ceramics are beautiful.






The view from Ravello looking east towards Salerno. We didn't make it to Salerno, maybe next time, as I am certain we will return to the Amalfi coast again one day.












We have been in Amalfi, Positano and Ravello

This has been the highlight of our trip. We are feeling more like visitors rather than tourists if that makes sense.

the Amalfi coast is just a special place that makes you feel good. the people, the food, the spectacular scenery, the relaxing lifestyle and yes, alright and the shopping......

we are down to three couples now as most of the other people on the tour have headed back to Naples  and Rome. Scott and Belinda from Morinington who we clicked with from our first meeting in Sorento, and Robert and Sandra from the Bay of Islands in NZ.

we were picked up from our hotel Vesuvio at 10.45am by our driver Valentino. the roads are so narrow that this leg of the tour is by mini bus somewhat like a Tarago. It was comfortable and air conditioned and Valentino turned out to be a tour guide as well as  a very safe driver, pointing out yvarious interesting spots along the way and a run down on the history and even making a few photo stops on the 1.5hour  drive to Amalfi.

we passed Positano which looked really interesting and there were already plans being discussed for the 6 of us to get a car or ferry for our free day in Positano.

We reached our hotel Excelsior, which was perched high above the township and the bustling little port.

the views from the hotel are spectacular with all of the rooms oriented to the south and the panoramic views of the Mediterranean and the distant shores and mountainous peaks of Sicily. The township and the port in the foreground, as well as the terraced slope with dense planting of lemon trees, grape
vines, tomatoes, and everything else you can fit into the fertile terraced gardens. We felt like rock
stars in Beverley Hills perched on the hillside looking down over the town and the breathtaking Mediterranean. there is a large pool with sun lounges, tables  and chairs and  umbrellas along the 
terrace edge. after checking in we went for a swim and had Limoncello by the pool.

we met an Australian, Italian born couple in the pool, who had been in the area for a week and they gave us a heads up on what to see and do and the operation of the hotel shuttle bus that goes to town
and back every 30 minutes and also stops at the private beach, which costs e10 per person per day, about $15. You get a lounge and umbrella but no beer or wine, or massage.

Anyway after our swim we got changed and caught the free shuttle bus into town to have a look around. Amalfi has a bustling port and bus interchange and a main road that winds up the slope which is lined with shops and restaurants. No hawkers peddling tacky Gucci handbags and sunglasses here, just the locals and visitors enjoying the beach and the sun, only interrupted by the occasional 
motorbike, fiat or mini wizzing up or down the narrow shopping strip.

We found a shop selling their own organically produced Limoncello and we had a taste. It was definitely stronger than the one we had the hotel. Needless to say we bought two bottles, they will
squeeze into our bags somehow. We are in love with the Amalfi coast and the relaxed atmosphere of
the town and the region...., the vibe. We are so happy that we added this leg onto the holiday, and we are really missing Jess and Dylan ......ha ha.

Ves is so happy, and tanned as she gets. We think there may be something in the water here or maybe it's the Limoncello. Back to the hotel on the shuttle bus for dinner and maybe after we will head back into town to check the night activity. We had been told that the food at the hotel was really good so we were excited about that.

We dressed for dinner, long pants for me and shoes, no thongs as that seems the norm for dinner and was suggested in our summary of the tour at the start. We were shown tour table for 2 on the edge of
the outdoor terrace. I wish I could add some photos, they would really supplement the description and I,m sorry if I am rambling. When I get back I will.

Scott and Belinda got a second row table and joked about how we always get the best table at breakfast and dinner, and the good room with the best views, and there is a little side story to that.

Anyway was dinner was included and we had a choice of several entrees and mains and a desert. Ves had been able to obtain her gluten free options and it didn't,t take long for the staff to start treating her like royalty.

The food was great, the pasta was cooked to, perfection and the flavours and presentation were amazing. No time for desert though tonight as we had to catch the 9pm bus into town, to have a look at the town at night and there was always a desert option there if we need it. Have I mentioned at all how good the gelato is, I'm sure I must have and the coffee.

We had a lovely walk around the town and had a coffee at one of the cafes and just watched life in Amalfi as you do.

Tomorrow we are off to Positano with our new found friends. Its only about 16kms by road but we have decided to take the early morning ferry, that way we will avoid the winding roads and it will take half the time and we will also get a another interesting view of the Amalfi Coast from the water.


























Tuesday 30 July 2013

The Isle of Capri

Dinner in the hotel was nice and so was breakfast, but a bit basic. our driver arrived to pick us up at 9am and there about 8 of us off to Sorrennto to meet the hydrofoil for our trip to the isle of Capri.

When we arrived in Sorento we met out guide Lavinia. she is a local from Capri, and was a realy good guide for our day on the Island.

the hydrofoils trip was pretty quick and then we transferred to a smaller boat with about 18 people most of whom were familiar to us either from the day before in Pompei or those we had met at the Hotel.

so we motored for about 15 minutes to the east of the island to the grotto. we started to figure out that we were in a que of boats waiting to enter the blue grotto. from here what happens is you are transferred to a small row boat with 4 or 5 poeple and then you rowed over to join the entrance to the grotto. it was difficult to tell which boat was next but the skippers all seemed to know and just like of other things in Italy like passing traffic and crossing the road it all seemed to work out.

any way after about an hour, which we were told was pretty good for waiting at the grotto, we manouvred into a small boat and were told to keep our hands inside and our heads down as we entered thru  a 2m diameter hole in the rock into the dark cave to view the shining blue water inside the grotto. even the guys in charge of the small row boats had to pull themselves through and duck under a steel chain to get inside, in time with the rise and fall of the water.

we were only inside for about a minute or two and it was quite unique to see the glowing blue water underneath. but it was a lot like a Disney ride with the experience heightened by the actual effort to get in and safely out, then back onto a real boat.

Next we retuned to the marina and transferred to.small buses for the drive up the narrow and winding road to the main shopping area of Capri, about 10 minute ride. Once there we had some free time to shop and get cold drink. It has been really hot and by this time it was about 12 noon.

Next stop was Ana Capri on the top of the island, another 10 minutes of narrow winding road and this time Ves could not look down. It was very steep and not a lot of barrier protection along the edge of the road.

We had our lunch stop here and a bit more free time for shopping, but nothing much on offer that we had not seen before. Back to the hydrofoil and then back to the hotel just in time for late swim in the pool before dinner.

The view from our room was great and as the sun set at about 9pm the twinkling lights of Naples added the scene from our vantage point high above town on the upper slopes of Sorento. We even had fireworks at 11pm that went for about 20 minutes. A lovely show and topped off a couple of great days in Sorento.

Tomorrow we are off to Amalfi.


Monday 29 July 2013

We are in Sorrento

It was an early check out from Hotel Regno but we will be back for one more night.

we were picked up by the mini bus at 6.50 am and circled Rome picking up a few more people and meeting the big bus for our 5 day tour to Naples Sorrento, isle of Capri and Amalfi.

About a 3 hour drive to Naples with a pit stop along the way. our guide Guiseppe, Pepo for short, was fun and fluent in Italian, English and German. The local guide in Naples Wilma was very good and it was a quick 1 hour tour in the heat and we got to see part of the port and the industrial area on the way in and out. Then we were off to Pompei for lunch and a tour of old Pompei with views through the haze of Mt Vesuvius along the way. Lunch was pretty good and then we met up with Wilma again and she would be our guide through Pompei as well.

Pompei was amazing and I could not believe how intact part of it was and the mosaics and artwork, considering the town was buried in ash since 79AD. This was a great 2 hours and although it was really hot it was worth it and Ves and I learnt so much.

After that it was goodbye to Pepo as he was heading back to Rome with half the bus load and the rest of us were going on to Sorrento. We drove along the winding road around the Bay of Naples with sheer cliffs on one side and vistas of the small townships and blue waters of the Mediterranean to our next stop and 2 nights in Sorrento.

We made friends with Sandra and Robert from the Bay of islands and Scott and Belinda from Mornington Vic. We ended up travelling with them to Amalfi, but more of that later.

Our hotel, Grand Vesuvius in Sorrento was nice and we had meals included which was a real bonus. The hotel was a bit out of town on the upper slopes with magnificent views of the bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvio, even through the haze, caused by the high summer temps and high humidity. The night lights were also really nice as we could see some fireworks and the twinkling city lights of Sorrento and along the edge of the distant shores of Napoli on the othe side of the bay.

Tomorrow we are off to Capri and the blue grotto where the sun shines in to a cave in the side of the rock escarpment of the Isle of Capri.





Friday 26 July 2013

Here we are in Rome

This is the last leg of the family holiday and Rome has been great.

A bit hot but as Ves and I remember it. The food is great the people have been nice and the sights are spectacular with another church or statue around every corner. I forgot to mention the crazy drivers. Crossing the road can be a real challenge at first.

We arrive on the fast train from Venice at about 3.30 and were picked up at the station and taken to our hotel, the Hotel Regno in the centre of town near the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. A great location about a 15minute ride from the station. Ves and Jess went off to find Zara and how lucky, there are two with 200mm of the hotel. Dylan and I went off for a walk and had a beer and slice of pizza at a nearby bar.

Ves and I met back at the Hotel at 5pm as we had planned to walk to the Spanish Steps, its actually the Spanish Square as the steps have nothing to do with Spain its just a nickname. It was about 10 minute walk to see if we could join the free tour of Rome, that was was supposed to go for about 2 hours. After that we would meet Jess and Dylan somewhere for dinner.

I met Ves at 5pm and she was a bit flustered as she had run out of time with Zara and raced back to meet me. Anyway we met the tour and the guide was great and there were about 20 people, including us following him around for a couple of hours ending up back at the Trevi Fountain. We went past the parliament, various churches, including the Pantheon, monuments and fountains and Bernini's house.

Its a fun tour full of information but by the end of it Ves was about to faint as there is no food at Zaras. So we called Jess and Dylan and they met us at the Trevi Fountain and we had a nice dinner at a nearby restaurant. After a slow start with the service and Ves threatening to walk out, the food turned out to be really good and we were all happy. Gelato on the way back to the hotel and an early night for a big day in Rome tomorrow.

We did the Colosseum and Roman Forum on Wednesday, our Scarvi Necropolis tour on Thursday was great and today we did the Sistine Chapel, The Vatican Museum and St Peter Basilica and the catacombs.

It has all been great so far.

Have to sign off as Jess and Dylan are heading to the airport and talking the lap top with them.

More photos and interesting stuff when we return in a week or so.






Wednesday 24 July 2013

In Venice


It was an early start at 7am as this was our last day with the car, which we had to drop off in Venice Mestre. All was going well until Navvie sent us on detour through some narrow streets and winding roads and when we hit the Italian border Navvie started going hay wire as she was not set up for Italy only Croatia.

Anyway we made to the drop off point and our rent a car guy was waiting and that all went well and then we dragged our bags over the train station for the one stop to Venice St Lucia. We bought tickets for the Vappareto public ferry for the ride along the Grand Canal to San Marco where, as per our map, we had a short walk to our hotel, Hotel Del Campo. Our manager at the hotel was Mateus. He was very nice and helpful and later booked a restaurant for us.

The crowds were just crazy in San Marco Square and it was hot, very hot, but it was exciting and a bit smelly.

We checked in and the kids were tired and they had a nap while Ves and I went exploring. We found some great shops including and amazing mask shop and the owner let us try on the masks and take photos. 



We also found a restaurant for dinner that night. The restaurant was a bit out of the way but it also had a gluten free menu, which Ves was excited about. We booked a table in the garden at the back.  


The food was nice but my Cuttle fish venetian style, cooked in its own ink, was interesting and I have to admit a little bit hard going down.

Day 2 we decided to have our own free time, shopping and exploring and Ves and I booked a small boat tour of the Grand Canal for 4.45pm. The plan was to meet back at the hotel after that at about 6.30pm and then decide what to do for dinner and maybe even a gondola ride if we had time.





Well we ended up missing the tour because the Vaparetto took so long getting back to San Marco and we had to sprint to the meeting place and being 10minutes late they had already left. Atleast I got in some exercise and then Ves and I found a bar and had a cold drink as it was so hot and we had been running to try and catch our tour. Oh well as Ves said, if that the worst thing to happen its not too bad.  

We caught up with Jess and Dylan around 6pm and decided to go out for dinner at 7.30. They were sad to hear about us missing our tour.

We went in search of a restaurant and found one near San Marco Square. Jess and Dylan paid the bill and then we walked to the Grand Canal, took photos of the full moon and bought our Vaparetto tickets to the railway station, for the following mornings trip on the fast train to Rome.













In Zagreb


We made it to Zagreb at about 4pm. We got to the hotel and Ves and Dylan went straight to bed where they stayed until morning. Jess and I went out to explore the town and get our first dose of MacDonald’s on the whole trip

In the morning we got up early for our drive to the Plitvica Lakes. We picked up Antonia and drove about 2.5hrs south the Plitvica national park. We chose the 3-4 hours walk through the park as Ves and Dylan were still not up to a long trek.






It was very beautiful with waterfalls and cascades and crystal clear blue water, and abundance of fish of various sizes. Words and pictures cannot describe it.

We had a lunch at the midway point that Antonia’s mum had prepared for us.

It was a quite a hot day and we worked up a sweat on the return leg back to the starting point. We got back to the hotel at about 5pm then a quick shower and change then off to Mladen and Jadranka’s house for dinner.

It was the first time in 15 years that Mladen had left work early to be home in time to greet us and to prepare a bar b que.

They have a lovely home in the hills about 15 minutes from Zagreb centre with views of the Smljet mountain. They have a small veggie patch and grape vines front and back and Mladen has a man cave at the back with barb que smokehouse and storage for his tools and cooking utensils. He likes his cooking.


Dylan, Vesna, Jadranka, Iva, Antonia, and me.


We had a lovely dinner and evening with them. Too much food and Dylan and Jess went out with Antonia and Iva and Ves and I went back to the hotel, it was another late night.


Iva, Jess and Antonia

The next day Ves and I went for a quick shop for some gifts as we were due back at Mladens at 11am as he had planned for me to help him cook something.  It was a goulash type dish in large pot suspended over a gas burner and supported on a tripod. It took about 2 hours to cook and was delicious. Jadranka must have been up since dawn cooking for us, as the meal she prepared included roast duck assorted vegetables and salads and a baked pasta dish and a cheese pita. I could not eat another morsel.



After lunch we went and watched their home movies including holidays at the beach in Omis and the family celebrations and the snowfall from last winter.




We said our goodbyes to Mladen and Jadranka and went back to the hotel at about 5pm.  I had to have a nap as I was not feeling well and Jess and Ves and Dylan went on a little tour of Zagreb with Antonia and Iva. Later that night jess and Dylan went out with Antonia and Iva for a few drinks.











Visiting Relatives in Djakovo and Drenje


Off to Dakovo and Drenje on Tuesday morning and Antonia had already sent us a message on Monday to say that we were expected for lunch at Teta Justas place in Drenje, a village about 12 kms out of Djakavo, the main town with its spectacular Cathedral.

We had trouble contacting them to let them know when we would arrive and we got there at about 1pm and Teta Justa was just so glad to see us. We also got to finally meet Antonia the daughter of Mladen, Ves’s cousin from Zagreb. She speaks very good English and she was so helpful and great company for the rest of the week. She is studying law at University in Zagreb.

Teta Justa is Ves mum’s sister. She had three children Mladen the eldest who lives in Zagreb, married to Jadranka and daughters Antonia and Iva.

Anita, who lives with her in Drenje, and Ivana married to Martija (husband) and they have 3 beautiful children, Maria (11) Lucia (8), and Ivan (5) who live in Dakovo.

Teta Justa had prepared a welcome lunch for us with soup and schnitzel and cold meats and cheese that she had cured and salads from her garden. She has a large house and sheds and a large garden at the back, a mini farm she looks after herself with the help of Anita as well. She grows blackberries, blueberrys, and has walnut trees, chestnut trees, apple and every vegetable you could name. I forgot to mention home made wine as well and chooks. Anita popped in on her lunch break. She works at the local farm supplies in Drenje. It was great to see her and she was so happy to see us too.



Teta Justa and Anita.





Martija and the children arrived at about 2pm and joined us for lunch. They do not speak any English although the kids know a few words. They were a bit shy at first but were taken with Jess and Dylan straight away.

Jess, Antonija, Maria, Lucia, Martija and Ivan

Later we checked into our hotel in Dakovo and Martija came by at about 6pm and we followed him over to his house in Dakovo town. We met up with Ivana who had been working and we had wine, coffee and chatted and then she brought out a platter of meats and cheeses and cakes and they ordered pizza for the kids. Tired but definitely not hungry we drove back to the hotel and Martija was meeting us at 10am to give a tour of Dakovo, before lunch at 2pm with Ves’s other cousin Bozidar the son of Ves Mum’s late sister Ankica.





Martija and the kids met us at the Hotel promptly at 10am and we followed them into town. We visited the Cathedral and then had coffee and then walked around the town. We visited the stallion horses that Dakovo is famous for and had a guided tour of the stud farm. Then we drove out to another farm on the outskirts of town where the mares and young foals are kept. This was a more informal tour and the kids were able to pat the horses, it was very nice.


Lunch at Bozidars and Kayas place was another feast of soup and schnitzels and potatoes and salad and lots of beer and wine. We also met daugthers Tanya, married to Robert with and 18 month old boy Carlo and Anna and her boyfriend Marco.


Teta Justa, Kaya abd Vesna.





Bozidar and Vesna





Bozidar just loved Dylan.

Bozidar arrived a little late as he had been at work. He was the life of the party and could speak quite good English. Later Ljubica, sister of Bozidar, arrived with Jelimir (husband) and daughters Vesna (27) and Josipa (24). It was a bit emotional reunion for Ves, and was a bit overwhelming and there were tears of joy at meeting all of he relatives again after 27 years. The girls were charming and Josipa looked after me and later gave me some medication to help my cold.  




Jess, Vesna and Josipa












                                        Kaya, Lubiza and Vesna

After lunch Josipa came with us in the car to the cemetary and we got some flowers and visited the graves of Ves uncle and aunty, Bosco and Ankica, and also their late daughter Marica, (sister of Bozidar and Lubica) who we had met as well 27 years ago. It was very emotional and there were more tears, but it was nice to be there.

After that we went to Ljubica and Jelimir house in town, for coffee. Then we went back to Teta Justas place in Drenje to spend more time with Anita.



We had planned to meet at Teta Justas at 11am to say our final goodbyes and to pick up Antonia as we were giving her a lift home to Zagreb. A bit of a squeeze in the Astra Wagon but not a problem. 

Ves and Dylan were not too good. Bad tummies that we put down to the water in Dakovo. Jelemir had said it was only good for frogs. We were running late as usual and didn’t finally get to Justas until about 12 noon. Teta Justa was waiting out the front, and it reminded us of Ves’s Mum who often waits at the front of the house if we are running late to go to her place.